Top Tips: Audi 7 speed DSG Transmission – 0B5 – Sensor Module Replacement

Please refer to Audi TPI  2027068/15

Typical DTC’s – Fault Codes – are:

P179E, P179F – Sensor of driving mode, electric fault

P179E, P179F – Sensor of driving mode, malfunction

Also, in combination:

P060A – Control unit, internal processor monitoring, malfunction

P1758 – Terminal 15 voltage, interruption

P0700 – Control unit faulty


Warnings shown on dash:

“Gearbox malfunction: you can continue driving”


Following this TPI is a big job. No two ways about it. It is a slog and a fight at times. Access to some nuts / bolts / fittings / fixings is VERY tight. Add to that the corrosion factor of exhaust nuts: stress and frustration levels can rise quite high.

The job involves transmission removal and then splitting it into its 3 separate sections to replace the sensor module.

It IS heavy. Once off, loosening the side shaft bolt required 4 people when we did the job.

The sensor module is bought as 2 separate parts: the sensor module itself and a section of wiring loom. Don’t skimp, buy them both. Genuine, obviously.

Email us for part numbers if required. TPS know all about this job though and will know what you want.

Special Tools for Sensor Module replacement on 0B5 transmission:

Just 2 essentials really:

  • Clutch puller
  • Side shaft removal tools – Kit available from Amazon
  • Seized nut of kit – for exhaust nuts – not really ‘Special’
  • Oil seal ‘pusher’ for input shaft – not really ‘Special’

I borrowed the clutch puller from a buddy and bought the side shaft tools from Amazon. Clutch puller is available from Amazon and a bit of common sense DIY input though.

Top Tips:

I had too much information on this job and almost confused myself with all the info sources: Audi factory info and a good few Youtube videos. My advice is watch the Youtube stuff to get a good overview – at home – and then follow the factory instructions only to actually do the job.

Top Tips – Golden Nuggets:

  • You WILL get the exhaust sections off. It IS a fight. Use the seized nut kit and you’ll get there.
  • The forward-most allen bolt on the RH axel shield WILL come with some cunning…. Use tape around your UJ socket adapter to ‘stiffen’ it up a little….
  • The super tight side shaft bolt IS normally threaded. It is very, very, very tight. It took 4 of us to support / hold the transmission and loosen that bolt.
  • I didn’t but if your mileage is north of 100k, I would replace the mechatronics electronics as part of this job. Possibly even the clutch.

Mechatronics Electronics link:

  • Transmission fluid cooling pipes… Our biggest headache when doing this job. They route over the top of the transmission and stay in place after transmission removal. Two of them, obvs. Religiously, don’t let one ‘climb’ over the other and hence out of position. We did. They became wrongly entwined – somehow. Big headache. Tape them, keep them in position. Just do something so they can’t move once transmission is out.
  • We didn’t skimp on sealant – bought Genuine. We have NO fluid leaks at all. Remember, transmission holds both DSG fluid AND Diff fluid.
  • You don’t need ODIS or VCDS at the end to do any resets or adaptions (unless replacing the clutch). You just need a tool that’ll measure DSG fluid temperature – to get the level correct.

Videos I watched. There are plenty on YouTube. These are 2 that I watched….

Audi Tech Data:

Good luck! Go smash it!!!